Tailors: Forgotten Style Aids and Money Savers

December 20th, 2008

The way people clothe themselves has changes drastically in the last century. It used to be that if you needed a new garment, you would go to the tailor, choose a fabric, get measured and have it custom made. Nowadays this is unheard of, reserved perhaps only for the rich. Although average people can purchase ready-made clothing in a fraction of the time and at affordable prices, we’re universally disappointed when nothing fits correctly.

Tailoring shops were once as common as barbers. Now, their services are relegated to grungy mall shops and as a drycleaner’s add-on sale after to key cutting. Industrialization has taken something away from the laypeople and given it to the affluent. The good news is that regular folks have an opportunity to look well-to-do without paying well-too-much.

Intro to Anthropometrics

Big clothing manufacturers have their sights set on profit. They want to make desirable outfits that fit as many body types as possible. Recording the body shapes of the general populous has become very lucrative as a result. With the recent development of 3D body scanners, anthropometrics, as this is known, has become much easier and less invasive.

A company named [TC]² (the Textile/Clothing Technology Corporation), with financial backing from a large group of sponsor (including Sears, Target, JC Penny, Jockey, Levi Strauss & Co., Liz Claiborne, a number of universities and the US Army and Navy) completed a massive study of body shapes, scanning ten thousand Americans and tabulating the results. Using advanced calculation techniques they were able to average out the measurements of the population into defined groups: Small, Medium, and Large, for example.

This is not the only study of its kind. There’s considerable financial reward in finding ways to make clothes fit more people. Cornell University has also dedicated significant resources to anthropometrics, and various publications explore this science in great detail.

Middle Ground

Anthropometrics, while useful for businesses, means that unless you’re remarkably average, most clothes won’t satisfy. By suiting everyone, they in fact fit no one. So how does one get clothes that fit without paying to have them custom made? Find the middle ground. Ready-to-wear clothes are inexpensive and available in many styles. Simply have them fitted to your body’s un-average features using a good, old-world tailor.

How and Who this Helps

A good tailor can do much more than shorten pants. They can resize suits, make billowy business shirts fitted and flattering, or even make clothes right from scratch. It is significantly less expensive to alter an existing garment than to create a new one altogether, so there are a number of groups of un-average people that benefit particularly from having a tailor:

• The Unsatisfiable - Never can find clothes that fit? Constantly disappointed? Purchase only the style as required and have a tailor do the rest.
• Frugally Fashionable - Opens the door to many more articles of vintage clothes, fittable as required.
• Money Savers - Formerly unwearable garments can be given new life.
• Dieters/Exercisers - As body shapes change, previously fitted clothes become unflattering and can benefit from a rework.

Finding a Good Tailor

Much like finding a good barber or hairstylist, finding a good tailor is a very personal choice. You need to trust them not to ruin your clothes and to meet your needs closely: a tall order. Referrals are a good way to start. Ask friends, family and collegues if they can recommend anyone. If that doesn’t work, Ask MetaFilter and see if there is anyone suggested in your area.

If you can’t find someone via referral, you can also search for one in your local phone book, however your chances of disappointment are higher. In a worst case scenario you can have someone in the mall do your alterations but it’s hard to find that old-world passion and artisan spirit in a dank mall unit, even the better decorated ones. It may cost a few dollars more per visit but a quality tailor with whom you have a good relationship is well worth the extra cost.

Tips

1. It’s easier to take clothes in than let them out.
2. Communicate clearly. “Hem these pants” will not suffice. Be specific.
3. Don’t expect miracles. Tailors can make good clothes great but they can’t rebuild outfits entirely.

Whilst difficult to find, high-end second hand clothing stores exist and are a great little fashioin secret. Off the Cuff in Toronto is a good example of high-end clothing at mid-range prices. To quote their website:

“Cheating Husband? Why not earn some cash while still achieving revenge? We sell designer menswear on consignment and would be happy to take his.”

Places like this make formerly untouchable Armani, Zegna and Boss suits cost as much as ones from the mall with a little help from a tailor.

Sew What

Western society has collectively decided that it’s better to have choice and style than customization. We can actually have the best of both worlds with a little effort and a good tailor. Ask around, find a reputable tailor and give them an out-of-favour shirt or pair of pants for a trial run. You might be surprised how easy it is to breathe new life into a garment and find yourself coming back with more.